Using an M6 tap per operating instructions, thread the holes you drilled.Proceed to drill these holes larger using your 7/32 (or 5mm) drill bit.Using your small bit, drill a guide hole in the center of each marked circle.Plate down a mat to catch metal debris and clean afterwards.) Drill and thread new mounting holes ( FOR SAFETY: Drill over a working surface that will not be damaged when you puncture the escutcheon plate with the drill, and clamp in place. While holding the plates firmly together, use a pencil or sharpie to generously circle inside the adjusting holes of the mounting plate only the escutcheon plate.Ĥ.As the escutcheon plate’s hole will be larger than the August mounting plate, position the adjustable holes on the mounting plate to maximize distance from the center hole.Position the August mounting plate on the escutcheon plate with the flat side up and the center hole over the middle of the existing hole in the escutcheon plate.When you have one side mostly over the edge, pull the ring off with the pliers and remove the deadbolt mechanism from the escutcheon plate.ģ.Using a combination of needle nose pliers and a small flathead screwdriver, work the interior teeth on the ring up and over the deadbolt ring’s lip.Remove the retention ring holding the deadbolt onto the escutcheon plate Unscrew the 2 Phillips screws on the escutcheon plate and lift plate forward.Ģ.Remove the interior handle by unscrewing the black T10 Torx screw.Open the door, latch the deadbolt, and rest the door slightly open on the strike plate.) Disassemble the interior door escutcheon plate ( FOR SAFETY: Unlock the handle lock on the inside of the doorframe. A bolt cutter, OR a Dremel tool, OR other metal sawġ.Tap & Die kit with M6 tap size for threading. Drill with 7/32 OR 5mm bit for M6 hole (and ideally one much smaller bit for guide).Screwdriver with Phillips, Torx, and flathead bits (per your door’s hardware).16mm worked for my lock, but if in doubt, consider other sizes such as 10mm as well.) Everbilt #803128 - $1.72 for 3 ( NOTE: The length of the screws should be shallow enough not to exceed the depth of the mounting plate + escutcheon plate combo. It will effectively take the place of a deadbolt tailpiece and work with the D-shaped green August adapter.) Everbilt #800317 - $1.98 for 12" (NOTE: This is the piece that drives the adapter to turn the deadbolt. Importantly, some mortise locks (ANSI Function Codes F13, F20) are designed for safe and fast egress by allowing the interior handle to disengage both the latch and deadbolt in one motion, and this August lock does not interfere with that feature. This SHOULD work with any smart lock that uses 2 horizontally-oriented M6 deadbolt screws on their adapter plates. All specs are accurate for my own hardware but may require slight changes where marked in bold italics for other locks with different clearances or hardware. This documentation of my experience with a Yale 8847 mortise lock (ca 2017) and an August Smart Lock Pro 3rd Gen is to hopefully aid and inform others in their attempts to make conventional smart locks work with their doors. Following his guidance, I was able to successfully install my lock with minimal expense and difficulty. Thanks to a post from last year by Reddit user Gonefishing1717, I learned that with a little bit of additional modification, some mortise locks can be easily adapted to work with standard August smart locks via reversible and interior-only methods. While multiple models of mortise smart locks exist, these are generally more expensive and often require complete replacement of the existing lock including the exterior hardware, which can be against HOA rules. This is explicitly incompatible with August smart locks, although they announced a mortise adapter kit in 2017 which never materialized. Most smart locks are intended to be installed on a traditional deadbolt lock, however many multi-unit buildings (both old & new) often use a “ mortise lock” instead, where the deadbolt and handle are integrated in one mechanism.
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